One more muslin and a few more changes and I think I’m ready to start on my first real trousers not made from bedsheets! Here’s the final lineup…
I started out muslin #3 by making a few changes to the pattern pieces. Below you can see, outlined in green the slight scooping out of the front and back pattern pieces (outlined in green). The front pattern piece is on the left and the back on the right. After muslin #2
I really wanted to add a bit of room through the seat, and I thought that dropping the crotch a bit would help in the back, although I have problems with TOO much room in the front, so I just eased that a bit.
Once I scooped out the back, I wanted to add a bit on the side to compensate for the width removed from the center back seam. You can see how I added a little slice on the hip side, also outlined in green.
Next, I thought that dropping the center front a bit would help with the extra fabric in the crotch area. I cut out the fly area and slid down .75″, as shown below.
|first step in dropping the center front seam
Next, I drew a line from the new center front to the original side seam – I only needed to remove a sliver of tissue that’s peeking out above the ruler shown below.
|evening out the front waistband
This really made a difference! Shown below on the left is the third muslin with the center front dropped. This oddly made the waist band sit HIGHER than on muslin #2 (shown on the right) and got rid of the annoying extra fabric in the front crotch area!
|dropping the centerfront has the odd effect of raising the waistband!!
Trying it on!
Alterations made to the pattern I tried it on. The pants were a little snug, which I expected since I had to let out the side seams on the first muslin. Fitting trousers is certainly an exercise in healthy body image! I’m fairly happy with the fit, the odd wrinkle in the front is more from a badly-sewn zipper than a fit issue!
The final tweak I made was to add some width across the hips. I marked on the side (in green marker) where I wanted the width to start. Below the mark the trousers are fine – it’s the area from the mark to the waistband that needs a little room.
|marking where to add width in the hip area
Shown below is the original stitchline in pink, the new stitchline in blue and the mark I made on the hip shown in green. I started the new stitchline at the notch and eased from the 1″ seam allowance to a 5/8″ seam allowance , easing back to the original seam allowance at the waist.
Here is the final pictures of the muslin! There’s a weird bump on my right hip, but that’s from bad sewing – I wasn’t as smooth on that side in adding in the width! I think the 1.5″ I added by widening the seam added just enough ease. While there are some bumps I’m not a huge fan of, I think in the fashion fabric with a lining the trousers will lie very nicely!
|the final muslin!
I have some nubbly, bumpy ivory woven and white rayon ambience lining that will soon be trousers… hopefully by the end of the day!
Here’s a recap of my trouser-fitting posts…
Part III – The final pants muslin. Fashion fabric cleared for cutting.
Part II – The second pants muslin – amazing what an eight of an inch can do!!
Part I – I really, really don’t want to do this – making my first pair of pants…