Muslin #2 for the fitted shirt (to go with the full circle skirt) is complete, and there’s at least another muslin or two left in this project!!
Here’s where we were and where we are…
Hmmmmm…. not much of a difference!! But there WERE quite few little changes I made!
Changes to the pattern pieces
The main problem with bodice back was the gaping neckline. I thought there was about 2″ too much fabric, that extended down about 5 inches. To fix, I drew a dart on the pattern by the neckline about 1″ wide, angling closed about 5″ down. I continued one leg of the dart towards the bottom of the pattern piece – the dart and extended line are shown below outlined in yellow.
I then cut out the existing vertical dart and extended one leg up to almost meet (I left about 1/8″ of paper uncut between the two lines) the cut I’d already made – shown below in pink.
Once these cuts were made I swung the pattern pieces so that the neckline dart was completely closed up and the vertical dart was wider – see below everything is all taped up and tidy, with the new, wider vertical dart outlined in pink.
The next thing I needed to do was add some ease to the midriff and skirt pieces of the shirt. I added about .5 inches (for 2″ total) to the sides of the front and back midriff pieces using the pivot method. I’ve circled the little wedges I added in yellow below. I needed to keep the upper edge of the pattern pieces the same length so they would meet up smoothly with the bust pieces.
Next I moved on to the skirt pattern pieces. The first thing I wanted to do was widen the skirt pieces by .5 each so they would attach smoothly to the midriff pieces without having to do any gathering. I just cut the pieces vertically and slid the pieces apart about .5 inches. This is shown circled in yellow below. Then I wanted to add a little more width to the lower hem of the skirt, so I again used the pivot method (circled in green below) to add about another .5 inch (2″ total) to the outer edge of each piece. Finally, I had previously added quite a bit of width to the center back piece (shown below circled in red). I just wanted to round out that seam a bit so it laid a little smoother.
Trying on Muslin #2
Adjustments made, I put together the muslin and tried it on. It fit better, although it still needs more ease and has a few problem areas. Shown below, circled in pink is the excess in the neckline that I’ll need to pinch out. The other problem is in the vertical dart at the bust – more details on that below. You can also see from this photo how snug the midriff is – another inch or so of ease should help out with this!
Here’s a shot of the bust point. I’ve marked the neckline and the midriff seam in red to help orient you! I marked the green lines while wearing the muslin by pinching out the excess and drawing a line along the fold. The dart point as sewn is circled in yellow, and the intersection of the green lines is circled in purple.
Below, I’ve turned the bodice inside out so that I could see the markings from another angle. The yellow line shows the stitch line of the dart, with the dart point on the right end of the line. The red X marks where the green lines meet up. I can see from this perspective that it will likely help quite a bit if I just move the dart point up dramatically to the red X, I’ll just hand-baste the new darts into this muslin to see how it looks!
Next up… MORE unflattering photos (but I mastered between the first and second muslin the art of propping the camera on the shelf of the hutch and setting the 10 second delay, so at least I’m not contorting to get the photos from the mirror!!) and muslin #3….