Still plugging away on the Lady Grey. I’ve padstitched, assembled and attached the collar. I made the dog model it. I inserted the enormous sleeves, put in the sleeveheads and the very, very thin shoulder pads. I tried it on. I took pictures.
[Nicely padstitched. And steamed.]
Here’s a shot from the other side showing the nice ridge. I love pad-stitching. It’s like hand-quilting, but when I’m done I get a coat instead of a quilt!
[Pad-stitching works! It works!]
I was concerned about the large size of the collar and the turn of the cloth making the undercollar roll out. I had that problem with Vogue 8623 – unfortunately, with a white upper collar and orange brocade undercollar, so super obvious… I was a day ahead of Gertie and her excellent instructions, so I followed the instructions in the Tailoring book Gertie suggested.
I pinned the upper and under collar pieces, wrong sides together, with the seams closest to the neck lined up. Then I pinned the collar to the coat, hung on a hanger and marked the difference in the seams on the outer edge of the collar – you can see the white pin-heads below where I marked. I secured everything, then basted 5/8” away from the raw edge of the under collar, reducing the size of the undercollar by the amount of the gap in the photo below. I stitched along the basting line. And if that description of what I did didn’t make any sense, well, welcome to the club. I could have kicked myself when I read Gertie oh-so-clear instructions this morning. If only I had waited one day…
[Adjusting for the turn of the cloth.]
After I made the adjustment for the turn of the cloth, I removed the collar from the coat and I made my dog wear it. She does not like the pilgrim collar look.
[Lucy looks at me with censure in her eyes.]
Here’s a look at the inside of the shoulder. My shoulders were a bit of a mess, as I had cut the sleeves down, but then decided to make them larger, which involved freehand drafting them up a few sizes. Because of the redrafting, the sleeve caps are a bit too large, which caused a puffy look. I read in one of my reference books that the seam allowances should be pressed toward the shoulder to ‘flatten’ the sleeve cap, so I did that. The sleeve heads are the grey and white flannel pieces, I constructed and inserted those following the Tailoring book’s instructions. I put in little (1/4”) shoulder pads to smooth things out a bit.
[Shoulder pad and sleeve head.]
The difference between the fit without the pressing, sleeve head and shoulder pad is subtle, but it’s noticeable. To me, at least!
[With and without the shoulder pads and sleeve heads]
Here I am wearing the shell with the collar. I’m not entirely pleased with the look, but it’s hard to get a sense of the finished coat without the front facings in! Tomorrow! See the look on my face? So wistful! Such rounded shoulders!
[Bad lighting and dirty camera lens.]
Tomorrow is the day I finally have to decide on interlining. I intended to interline, but the fit of this coat is more snug than I anticipated, so I’m not sure if an interlining will work! Boo!
Go Lady Grey!
Great job with the pad stitching, and I love the fabric you've chosen. You're nearly there now!
Wow, that is really looking good! I have the fabric and the pattern. I should have joined with sew-along with you.
catch up! catch up! after i finish lady grey, I have 2 more coats to make. One for my husband, one for me (simplicity 2812! yay! warm wool batting!)
Mrs. E – thanks! i can't WAIT to finish – this coat is replacing a very unflattering brown double breasted peacoat/barn coat hybrid. Ralph Lauren, once again, not doing any favors for the plus-size ladies…
First, your pad stitching is awesome. Secondly, thank you for posting the photo with the shoulder pad. I think I"m adding shoulder pads and I was confused about how to do this (though Gertie did explain it in one of her responses to one of my comments).
I'm really amazed by how great it's looking!! Keep on.
Wow! Looking good. Beautiful job.
This is looking wonderful! Love the photo of Lucy, she is gorgeous!