Work has begun on Mr. Bug’s coat. A simple car coat. With welt pockets. I’m making a muslin and thought it would be a good chance to practice my welt pocket technique. Perhaps “develop” is a more appropriate word than “practice.” I tested two different techniques for a double welt pocket. The first is the method outlined in Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket, the second is the butterfly method that Gertie suggested in her Lady Grey sewalong tutorials. Neither was pretty. Here’s a side-by-side.
A brief overview of each method
The goal of either method is the same – a slashed pocket with the pocket bag on the inside of the coat and the pocket opening detailed with a set of welts .My Burda pattern seems to call the welts ‘piping’. Silly Burda. Piping’s for pillows.
In the ‘Gertie method’, the opening is cut first, then the cut edges are folded to the inside of the jacket and finished. Then the decorative welts are sewn in from behind. A lot like putting a picture behind the glass where the nice frame covers up the edges (the opening is the frame, the welts are the picture…)
In the method outlined in the tailoring book, the welts are sewn to the OUTSIDE of the garment, then the opening is cut and the raw edges of the welts are flipped to the inside, finishing the edges of the opening and forming the decorative welts all in one step.
Materials needed
Here’s a side-by-side of all the different bits needed for the two methods. In addition to the coat, of course!
For either method the same basic materials are needed – a big circle of fusible interfacing for the inside of the coat where the opening will go. Pockets. A piece of fashion fabric to sew across the top of the pocket piece that is closest to the body (that can be seen from the outside if the pocket gapes a bit.) And the material for the welts. In addition, Gertie’s method requires a piece of silk organza that is used to help finish the edges of the opening.
Preparation
The biggest difference between the two methods is clear in the preparation of the pocket materials. Below on the left(the Gertie method)I’ve shown the fusible attached to the wrong side of the coat, the organza stitched to the right side and most importantly, the welts basted together and ready to go. On the right I’ve got everything ready for the method shown in the tailoring book. Fusible on the wrong side of the coat fabric, no organza, and the welts are prepped separately.
Pros and the cons
The Gertie method
Pros: Excellent tutorial, easier to handle the welts as one piece, edges of opening looked sharper and easier to turn the edges of the opening. Easier to mark. Turning was much smoother with no puckering. Easier to get the opening equal on all sides since it was all sewn flat and at one time.
Cons: Difficult (for me) to get the organza all the way tucked under in the corners. The length of welts made it difficult to keep the edges from getting wavy and to keep the center line (where the welts meet) straight. Had to slipstitch the welts to the opening to try to keep straight (imagine how bad it would look if I HADN’T done this!).
The tailoring book method
Pros: Easier to keep the center line straight. Generally easier to keep everything under control, since it was all stitched and/or pinned at all times. Easier to turn corners. Slightly easier to attach the pocket material due to less layers and the order everything is sewn together.
Cons: Much harder to get the corners turned without puckering. Measuring has to be perfect on the welts (my bottom welt was a tad bit smaller than my top – a thirty-second of an inch, maybe – and it’s very obvious on the finished pocket. Marking was more difficult due to the extreme need for precision.
The final verdict
After having tried both methods, I will be going with the tailoring book method for the welt pockets. It’s too hard to keep everything under control when trying to attach the welts to the opening using the butterfly method Gertie suggested for her bound buttonholes. Also, after finally having tried both techniques, the main turn-off for the tailoring book-suggested technique, the completely confusing how-tos, is less of an issue. I understand the process and need to practice, practice, practice.
That being said, I can see how Gertie’s method is perfect for buttonholes. With the smaller opening, it wouldn’t be as much of an issue trying to keep everything from distorting while trying to attach the welts. I’ll definitely be using this method for the buttonholes on Mr. Bug’s coat!
Final, FINAL verdict
Single welt pockets, y’all. That’s all I’m saying. That nice big welt hides a multitude of sewing sins. Also, I need lots, LOTS more practice!
Single welt pockets hide any overworked misery! It takes practice and patience to do the double welt. You certainly are thorough and focused enough to master them if you really want to..
Well, I'm still struggling with the single welt over here… 🙂
I can't remember, in Gertie's method are the strips basted together down the centre when you position them or are they separate? If separate, basting them (before folding) might make it a tad easier to keep everything aligned.
Ugh. Precision.
I would recommend the tailoring book method for both welt pockets and bound buttonholes (essentially the same technique).
If you are having corner puckers, clip a little closer – you are clipping a bias cut and it is fused so it is safe!
Accuracy is important, so when you have stitched the welts, check the reverse for accuracy before you cut. My bound buttonhole tutorial might help too!
Great idea to practise and compare techniques!
Welt pockets are EVIL! I have been battling with them for ages. And you are right, practice makes perfect.
I have a feeling that the method that Gertie used works better with thicker fabrics, but it is in no way proven…
I wonder if it is even harder with a flap…
I am more of an exposed pocket kinda-gal. there's more opportunity for design options! LOL Plus you avoid these poopy things!
Excellent post! I like the side-by-side comparison. Makes me want to go try this out myself. 🙂
Are you making Burda 7780? I just finished that for my guy and you wouldn't believe how much cussing I did! Horrible directions, especially for the welts! He loves it so I suppose it was worth it.
Good luck to you!
morgan! I am! Pictures? Pictures? I don't think I've even unfolded the directions, just using the pieces and am following the steps of the tailoring book and Gertie's sewalong.
Taran – yeah – the welts are made by sewing the two welt pieces together right down the middle, then folding (what you sewed gets cut so the button can go in and out. It SEEMS like it should work better, but it was so hard with the larger openings!
Sherry – thanks, I'll test both methods on the button holes too! Your dresses are beautiful!
Single welts, ya'll!
I just did some welt pockets UNDER flaps. Now that's the way to go!
Actually, I think neither of your welts looks too bad. I agree that clipping closer (hard as it is to do) helps.
I agree with Joy – flaps hide everything! It also depends on the fabric too. Certain fabrics will make nicer looking welts and others will highlight every flaw… Good luck!